Close-up view of young green plants growing in neat rows in a field, with rich, dark soil visible between the plants.

Show #128 - Soil Science, Coir vs Peat & Lawn Health

You Don’t Grow Vegetables — You Grow Soil

There’s a simple truth in gardening:

You do not grow vegetables.
You grow soil — and soil grows vegetables.

Annuals, perennials, groundcovers, vegetables, and lawns all require excellent soil. The smaller and newer the plant, the more critical soil quality becomes.

Modern Soils Have Changed Everything

Today’s soils are far superior to what gardeners had decades ago.

Top choices include:

  • Fox Farms Happy Frog Soil Conditioner
  • Salamander Soil

Both contain:

  • Mycorrhizae
  • Humates
  • Coir-based structure (not peat moss)

Why Peat Moss Is Out

Peat moss has major limitations:

  • One-year shelf life
  • Loses porosity (like a stale potato chip)
  • Poor water regulation
  • Anti-hydrophobic — stays wet or stays dry

Peat was designed for greenhouse use where plants are transplanted within 6 months — not long-term garden use.

Europe over-harvested peat bogs and destroyed them. The sustainable replacement is coir, made from coconut husks.

Why Coir Is In

Coir advantages:

  • 5+ year shelf life
  • Regulates water efficiently
  • Lasts five times longer than peat

Available options:

  • Cultivation Nation
  • Coco Loco (70–80% coir with perlite)
  • Coast of Maine Castine Mix (with mycorrhizae and humates)

The Most Popular Soil Amendment: Composted Bark

Extra-fine composted bark (like Betty’s Clay Cutter) has been used since the 1960s for:

  • Azaleas
  • Fruit trees
  • Roses
  • Most woody plants

Benefits include:

  • Increased air content
  • Organic matter
  • Winter root insulation
  • Improved water management in clay soils

Soil Air Content Matters

  • Clay soil: 3% air
  • Healthy soil: 20% air

Air is the bloodstream of soil — nutrients and water move through those air spaces.

Large shade trees need some clay to anchor against wind, but:

  • Understory trees (dogwoods, redbuds) need better soil
  • Smaller and newer plants need the best soil preparation

Understand Soil Nutrition

Soil is like a refrigerator:

  • It stores food and water
  • You must put nutrients into it

Even premium soils like McGill’s Soil Builder (nitrogen = 2) are nutritionally considered zero without fertilizer.

All soil requires fertilizer to become enriched soil.

Vegetables Need Lime — Especially Hydrated Lime

Soft tissue plants (especially vegetables) require lime to make nutrients available.

Hydrated lime:

  • Available day one
  • Applied directly in planting holes
  • Essential for tomatoes, peppers, and vegetables

Other limes are too slow:

  • Pulverized: 1 year
  • Granular: 6 months
  • Pelleted: 3–4 months

Those are for lawns — not vegetables.

If you haven’t limed in two years, 71% of your fertilizer is wasted.

Great Lawns Are Built from the Soil Up

80% of lawn chemistry exists in the top 1” of soil.

Modern lawn care requires:

  • Core aeration (not dethatching)
  • Top dressing with quality soil
  • Yearly liming
  • Long-term fertilizer like Turf Trust

Without top dressing, aeration holes refill with bad soil — wasting the process.

Shade Changes Everything

  • Sun creates microbial activity (soil actually grows)
  • Heavy shade reduces microbes
  • More shade = more soil rebuilding needed

Shady lawns require extra soil and seed work to succeed.

Choosing the Right Soil for the Job

  • Coir-based soils → general planting & houseplants
  • Bark-based soils → woody trees and shrubs
  • Difficult plants (Rhododendron, Daphne, Lavender) → use both

Every houseplant in America suffers from tired peat-based soil. Refreshing the top 2” with coir-based soil and switching to granular fertilizers dramatically improves performance.

Early Spring Weed Prevention

As snow melts, watch for:

  • Small, light green broadleaf weeds

Gallery prevents them:

  • Apply early spring if missed in fall
  • Works preventatively — does not kill

Remember:

  • 80% of weeds are in mulch beds and edges
  • Fertilize and mulch first
  • Apply Gallery over dry foliage

Kill small weeds early to avoid big holes later.

Post-Emergent Weed Control

For existing broadleaf weeds:

  • Mix 1.5 oz Fertilome Weed Free Zone
  • With 1 oz Wilt-Pruf
  • In 1 gallon of water

Kills broadleaf weeds without harming grass. Always eliminate weeds before they go to seed.

Scroll to Top